Tuesday, October 8, 2013

Samos is an Island

Our ferry to Samos was fun, we sat on the back and had a lovely view. The ride is only 1.5 hours and it got cooler and cooler as we approached Pythagorion, the smaller town on Samos. It was like a postcard (well kinda sorta) and we had to go through a little customs box in the freezing wind. Luckily Michelle booked our hotel just 200 meters from the tiny dock so we were greeted by our host for three night George and had a nice meal in his restaurant. I was happy, pig at last! Since Muslims don't eat pork T-land is pig less in terms of meat. While settling into our room we suddenly heard a large thump against our door and some scratching. I opened the door to find a local feline had come calling so we let her in. She quickly became our little friend and we called her Pumpkin. Pumpkin slept in the room with us, snuggling under the blankets and we bought food for her but she favored tuna best of all. She learned quickly to wait be the tiny refrigerator door when she was hungry. Pumpkin obviously knew when that door opened magic happened and the tuna she loved appeared. We just loved that cat!
   Anyway the town had a nice little shopping area and the first day we layed low and just enjoyed not having to drive around. We also went to the museum which displayed, among other things, a hoard of Greek silver coins which contained many coins from Priene. It was a nice museum, small but quaint with a few imperial busts.
   The next day we rented a car and drove all over the place. We visited the Heraion, dedicated to Hera, a famous temple sanctuary and then a monastery and then the theater, which was extremely disappointing. We then tried to find a village Michelle wanted to see but the road in the mountains became some horribly hideous that our small tiny itty Hyndai car couldn't pass. I had to do a 175 point turn to get us going back down the hill. We then visited the larger town, Samos Town, (it has another name which eludes me), and visited the museum there which was awesome with finds from Heraion that were incredible, things we've never seen before. The princess was happy!
   On the way back to our town Pythagoreion we saw a sign, well Michelle did anyway, a small oval sign reading Animal Care Center Samos. Let me backtrack a moment. The first morning at Samis Michelle found an injured kitten. It upset us greatly and she continually returned and cared for it as she could. Upon seeing the sign she requested we seek the place out and after a windy partially unpaved road we found the care center behind the island dump, behind chain link gates with dogs everywhere. Michelle told them, all Germans and very nice, about the kitten she had named Sammy because he looks like our Sammy Bochaine at home. The agreed to take in and help the kitten and we then raced back to Pythagoreion and found the beast. The kitten purred instantly the moment he entered the car and clung to Michelle. He was dirty and exhausted and so appreciative of Michelle's warm lap. He paid no mind at all to the fact he was in a car, something we have never seen before and he purred loudly the whole time. We arrived at the care center and the kitty was now in good hands and Michelle gave them a monetary donation and we thanked them profusely, Michelke then crying nearly the whole way home. We stopped and had fun in a Greek supermarket than returned the car and enjoyed a nice meal at our restaurant. We had a great time on Samos and were so relieved the kitten was safe. Michelle learned through correspondence with Fraida at the care center the kitten had a broken leg and jaw, both healing properly. He'll be fine, maybe with a bit of a limp. Why is it people neglect the needs off animals? This is why Michelle and I only give to animal charities.
  Anyway we had to leave Samis and our cat Pumpkin but it friend Maria who runs the hotel restaurant loves cats (she has a troop of fat ones she looks after) and she promised us Pumpkin would be well and always cared for.
   The next morning we boarded our ferry and off we went back to T-Land.

Monday, October 7, 2013

In Seljuk

We made it Seljuk, which is near Ephesus, and stayed at a hotel we like called Hotel Kayhan. It is an Ottoman-style place with good food and lovely grounds. We decided to relax in the hotel for the first part of the following day, playing with their baby tortoises and enjoying ourselves. Road life can be tough and punctuating it with relaxation rounds things out. We then actually shopped in town a bit then spent the rest of the day at Ephesus, which was packed to the gills owing to not only being on the tour bus circuit but also those damn cruise ships, who pump the bodies into Kusadasi port like a factory filling cans!
  Ephesus is a cool site, but after what we've experienced and seen it really ranks pretty low on our list. I could go into it but you get the picture. At least they didn't have the cheesy gladiator show we saw last time!
   When we arrived at Jayhan hotel it was dark and Michelle found an injured kitten which instantly took the smiles off our faces. We bought her food and tried to help as we're the staff of this animal friendly hotel. While leaving Ephesus a German org was at the gates preparing to capture some of the many cats roaming the site and fix and care for them. They're called Sunnydays and they are a volunteer group I believe. Anyway Michelle told them about the kitten at the hotel and they have us a cage to bring her back on as they had agreed to take her and fix her up. We sped back to our hotel and found that the staff had already taken the kitten to a vet and were doing whatever had to be done to make the animal well. This was great so we brought the cage back to Ephesus and everyone was happy!
   The next day we stopped again at a local shop and chatted with this interesting Kurdish fellow, whose face looked like a pugilist.
   We then visited the temple of Artemis and then the museum, which was closed, then off we went toward Kusadasi and our ferry across to the Greek island of Samos. While in Kusadasi we walked around and ate lunch waiting for our 5pm ferry. The bazaars and whatnot are not to fun in this town aggressive vendors who basically all have one of ten types of shop. We were glad to get on the ferry and head off to Samos for awhile.

Pamukkale to Seljuk

Sorry this blog thing is a bit behind. I will not use it again as it is difficult to use with itermittent wifi.
   When we left Pamukkale we spent the morning enjoying the ancient city of Hierapolis, which sits right on the travertine cliffs and beyond. A nice place but thronged with tourists due to the buses that schlep them all in. The pools were filled with swimmers, many who probably haven't domed a swimsuit in decades, and the place was a general madhouse. The cost is also extraordinarily high because the place is on the tour bus circuit, like $32 to get in the site and swim, but less for us since we don't do the pools (did once or twice in the past).
   We left Pamukkale and drove to ancient Antioch on the Meander, since I have lots of coins from this place, then on to Aphrodisias.
    During our drive to Aphrodisias the sky foretold potential horrors for the foolhardy so of course Michelle and I go into the site seconds ahead of a huge storm with thunder, lightning and the whole mine yards. The place was deserted of humans, save for the souls who worked there who had retreated into some kind of shelter as Kelly and Michelle walked on in and the skies opened up.
    Now anyone who has ever been to this gorgeous ancient city will know there are only paths which wind through the site and these were now rivers and mud. The short of it is I got completely soaked and muddy, Michelle planned ahead with a rain poncho and was better off. We were pinned against walls and trapped for awhile in the theater. We then went into the museum there on site as I became cold and shivery but eventually the lights shorted out because of the water (this is the T after all) and we left. At the gate the guard told us the tractor-shuttle-thing was finished for the day but we had paid  for its service, great, a kilometer walk in the driving rain but an archaeologist leaving for the day sheparded us into his old Renault and on three cylinders he drove to our car, such a gracious and friendly young Turkish student.
   Now back at the car the lazy tractor-shuttle-thing guys felt bad and drive into the site in case there were any other survivors.
  Michelle and headed out and found a gas station where I could change clothes and we found hot water for coffee.
   We then decided to press on to Seljuk and we followed the storm west, which happened to be the first big storm of fall.

Thursday, October 3, 2013

Laodikeia and Tripolis

Now on the morning of Sept 30, mom's birthday, we rose and enjoyed our breakfast. We have kind of slowed down a bit as the weariness of the road catches up with us. Also paying $9.20 on average for petrol takes the edge off any snap compulsions to drive a long distance on a hunch there will be something to see (unless of course Michelle gets a whiff there might be a seated structure!).
    We decided to visit the ancient city of Laodikeia, where continuous excavations and restoration make each visit a new experience. This was our 5th visit and the T's sure have been up to no good, opening up new streets where one can stroll along the ancient stones and various buildings have been re-assembled to one degree or another. There are two theaters and we watched some great performances put on by the local lizards. We had a great time then relaxed with a cold drink and had pb&j sandwiches at small shop by our car. There is absolutely no shade at Laodiceia, so it can be hot at times.
  We then drove to the Phrygian city of Tripolis, remembering three years ago there wasn't much to see. This time the T's were milling around and up to something which means they are excavating and probably doing like what is at Laodiceia.
   After visiting 100+ sites it has become apparent the T's are upgrading and making the sites more presentable and accessible. That's good I suppose, though the roads to some suck and it is rather insulting at times to pay an entrance fee after driving up an almost impassible road!
   Anyway, after an easy day enjoying two sites and local scenery the two of us actually went back to our room and slept three hours before rising and walking around the small lake at Pamukkale and finally finding a place to eat.
It was an enjoyable but low key day and the princess (as well as her husband) was happy!

Wednesday, October 2, 2013

Lycia to Phrygia

Now Fethiye was the old Lycian city of Telmissos and some ruins pop up here and there, especially the theater which is lined at to by houses with narrow alleyways and stairs, like a mini Athenian Plaka but the comparison stops there. We enjoyed a nice morning walk through the old part of the town then the shops by the harbor, which were truly beautiful at night and quite inviting though the shopkeepers and restaurant people were rather aggressive. We enjoyed our walk but had to press on and left Fethiye to find the Lycian city of Tlos, which turned out to be a spectacular place to stomp around, though the theater was closed which made Michelle rather unhappy.
   Next we headed to Oinoanda, the northernmost Lycian town. We got horribly lost and turned around and when we found the place we were told we had to hike a couple miles into the place. Michelle didn't want to go and the guys there were creepy so we saved Oinoanda for next time, driving north toward Pamukkale until we found another of my fav stops, the ancient Phrygian town of Kibyra, a city I have like 20 coins from.
     We immediately noticed the T's had been up to no good, building a new road to the site where we used to just park next to the stadium. You can tell a pay site is in the future for Kibyra. Anyway the stadium was fan as always and new excavations brought to light all kinds of neat new things to look at, many right underneath where my car was parked last time! But what blew us away was an area where they cleared a Roman city street with colns and a fountain. Unbelievable in its beauty and the light was perfect for b&w film. Next the theater was charming as always and then we saw another new place, the odeon! It was extremely well preserved including the mosaic floor in front containing the entire inscription pertaining to who built it, why and exactly when because it was dated!!! Awesome is not coming close to describe it and what a fabulous place, preserved up to like 30 feet with all the seats and all the walls. Michelle's fascination for ancient seated structures was overwhelmed - not only a theater but a odeon and stadium too! The hat trick of ancient seated structures.
   We then left as the sun set and drove to Pamukkale. We missed a turn off due to construction and had to pass through the cf which is Denizli, one traffic jam was just terrible but Michelle recovered our bearings safely guided us to the Venus Hotel in Pamukkale village, where a nice hotel owner greeted us and we relaxed in our very comfortable room. What a cool day that was!!!!!!

Kas is nice but our hotel stunk

Now we stay at Kas a lot and try the various hotels on the same street as the theater, after all this was the ancient Lycian town of Antiphellos. We enjoyed a fab fish dinner, Michelle held and fed a kitten and we walked through the pretty buildings and shops.
   When we got back to our room we realized our room stank, like stale water. It also was tiny, but we kept the bathroom door shut and survived the night.
    The next morn we had coffee just after sunrise in the ancient theater and were joined by a local German Shepard i dubbed 'Theater Dog.' We then wandered a bit around the beautiful town, like it was on a Greek island, lovely,
   We then headed out to the Lycian site of Xanthos, gorgeous as always with her well preserved theater. It was photogenic and I shot some film. We then got a bit lost but found Letoon, a Lycian sanctuary with temples a short distance away. It also had the raised groundwater thing going on and was pretty to photo, with turtles and frogs in the water for Michelle to play with. A good time was had by all.
   We then drove through the beautiful rolling hills inland and tried to find the Lycian site is Sidyma. It is located in and around a village with little walkways and such. We walked around and got lost, the theater was never found as the heat made us tired. We then headed to our car, bummed hot water off a local villager and had a nice cup of joe using an ancient column as my coffee bar!
   Next we drove to the ancient Lycian town of Pinara. It was several km up this absolutely hideous road but we got there. The ruins are spread along the side of the mountain amidst the pine trees. We walked and explored and found the place truly wonderous and amazing. The theater was located down below and the vista was truly incredible! We spent hours here until we knew we had to leave to make it to Fethiye before dark. As we prepared to depart Michelle noticed a small goat which had been left behind by the herd as it moved past. It was crying and though the creature would have eventually gone home she had to intervene. Michelle first tried to tie a rope around its neck and lead it home but the goat was having none of this. Finally we walked and called for it and slowly led the beast at least halfway home until it became distracted by something tasty as ignored us. We tried.
   We then drove into Fethiye and found the harbor and our nice hotel looking over the boats etc.
Michelle noticed when I am driving in a city or chaotic mess I humm the music for the old video game Frogger, which involved getting a frog acrossed the street safely amidst all the cars. I wasn't aware I was doing this, people do the dam best things I guess.
   Our hotel was awesome and we found a gorgeous seaside restaurant and our great day of adventure was complete.

Lycia III

I must apologize for the lack of post my dear one or two readers as this blog site is just crap and I am finding it difficult to get it to work properly. In fact my last post I am about to redo is no where to be found and it is hard to type on this tiny phone keypad.
    Any way, I will pick up where I left off and attempt to enlightened you as to what transpired these past few days.
    After our charming stay in a local T-hotel we decided to try and find the Lycian city of Rhodiapolis, as I have a nice coin of  Tranquillina from this place. Well we did find it and evidently a lot of excavating has been taking place as it was a phenomenal site, well-preserved with a lovely theater and a sweeping vista of the valley below. Some of the aisles in the theater had lipn feet to either side! see facebook fir pics. Michelle was pleased and that is always a good thing.
   We left Rhodiapolis and headed west to the Lycian town of Limyra where a local guy tried to get us to pay him to watch our car. I told him I can watch it myself just fine and we walked a bit around the place. There was a part of the ruins which had been flooded by probably a rise in the water table and it produced a pretty pic. We stomped around a bit then visited the theater of course, which was in great shape. We got back to our car which was fine and left to find Arykanda, another Lycian town.
    Arykanda is located inland around 40 mild and the drive was lovely. The site is being heavily worked by the T's and we spent ours traipsing about the extremely well preserved buildings and Michelle was determined to locate the theater. She led us on a hike via a photo she took of the local map. Now I reluctantly followed but the direction didn't feel right to me. But she is the navigator so we walked and walked around the hill until she realized the theater could not be in the direction we were heading . Suddenly up the hill aways above us a small herd of antelope cautiously passed us as they worked their way up the hill. They were neat to see and the princess was happy. We then went back into the ruins and had a lovely picnic with, you guessed it, pb&j sandwiches and local apples. It was so relaxing and nice.
  A footnote here is regarding the Turkish jams, jellies and preserves. Now we have visited all the different markets and stores and it seems the T's don't make a distinction in this department. Since they don't eat pb&j sandwiches they don't realize their jams or whatever are way to runny and drip all over the place. This is an annoying thing for the pb&j connesiour and something which is frustratingly annoying when you find sticky jelly on your pants!!!
   Anyway, Arykanda us just awesome with a fantastic Thayer, odeon and partial stadium. A nice Welshman we ran into at the stadium sang their national anthem which was quite beautiful. His wife was with him and we applauded his good singing voice, especially for a guy in his seventies!
    We left Arykanda (yes I have a coin of Gordisn III from here) quite impressed and happy and headed west along the coast heading toward Kas, a town we usually stay in. We eventually saw the sign for the ancient site of Myra and contemplated coming back the next day but ultimately turned right and visited the famous Lycian site (I have 2 Greek and 4 Roman coins from this city, yay!). Michelle was not happy they charged like 15$ for us to get in and it is a small site (the area you can visit) with the famous gorgeous Lycian rock tombs on the hill above and the enormous theater. It was full of your buses and we became annoyed with the whole thing. It was our 3-4 visit here and perhaps the long day hiking in the sun did our heads in.
    Therefore we hastily departed to Kas, the beautiful Mediterranean Sea licking at her feet. I knew right where to go and we descended into the two, found out desired hotel quickly, showered and watched the sunset on the ancient theater about 100 yards down the street, a Turkish warship the only vessel in the beautiful sea before us. It was a good day.